An Alluring Inheritance of Beauty: Chinese Cheongsam

EVENT DESCRIPTION

Cheongsam is one of traditional apparels in China, mirroring the long-standing essence of the Chinese culture. The making technique has been inscribed into The National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China in 2021. To promote cheongsam as a timeless fashion classic, Hong Kong Design Institute’s Fashion Archive holds “An Alluring Inheritance of Beauty: Chinese Cheongsam” from now until 27 December, showcasing designs from the China National Silk Museum, Mr. Yan Ka-man, a Hong Kong traditional Shanghai-style cheongsam master tailor, contemporary fashion designers, celebrities, and students. Some of the century-old exhibits from the China National Silk Museum are displayed in digital format unprecedentedly. The exhibition also features nostalgic dioramas, as well as providing cheongsams for the public to try on and charmed by classic beauty.

Not only does cheongsam’s unique craftsmanship demonstrate the elegance of Asian women but also sought after by various generations of designers. The exhibition showcases over 40 historical and contemporary designs for the public to take a closer look. It fathoms the historical narratives and hidden emotions within and dissect the wisdom of tradition and aesthetics of fashion, as well as the exquisite craftsmanship. The audience will embark on a journey of cheongsam that traces the past and reflects the present.

Dr. Liza Wang Ming-chun lends cheongsam designs tailor-made by Hong Kong traditional Shanghai-style cheongsam master tailor, Mr. Yan Ka-man

Despite the fact that time has passed, people praise the classic elegance of cheongsam more than ever, including celebrities who are loyal fans of fashion design. Although it is rare to encounter cheongsam master tailors with exceptional craftsmanship nowadays, the exhibition invites Mr. Yan Ka-man, who is one of the most experienced traditional Shanghai-style cheongsam master tailors in Hong Kong, as well as cheongsam enthusiast Dr. Liza Wang Ming-chun’s exclusive cheongsam master tailor, to showcase his most prominent collections. Master Yan was under the apprenticeship of Master Si Jing-choi and inherited the most traditional school of Shanghai-style craftsmanship. Master Yan has also designed cheongsams for renowned celebrities such as Tang Wei, Carina Lau, Michelle Yeoh, Law Kar-ying, and Priscilla Ku, as well as collaborated with famed brands such as Shanghai Tang. For this exhibition, Dr. Wang has lent two cheongsams designed by herself and made by Master Yan, which she wore on important occasions. Other designs were lent by Dr. Brenda Li, Dr. Evelyna Liang, Ms. Po Ming-wah, Ms. Lolitta Wong Shuk-fan, and Sparkle by Karen. One of these designs lent by Dr. Brenda Li is even made of the historic Chinese silk fabric named watered gauze, also known as “soft gold”, which is fabricated by dying intricate hollow jacquard fabric with natural plant pigments. Its making technique is also on the second batch of the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China. Cheongsam is indeed an alluring inheritance of Chinese culture for the public to appreciate.

For the first time, in collaboration with the China National Silk Museum, the collection showcases centuries-old works in digital format

To demonstrate the history, evolution, and cultural value of cheongsam to the public, HKDI collaborates with the China National Silk Museum to display a total of ten works in digital format for the first time. Eight loans are from the Republic of China period with over 100 years of history. The exhibition also attentively includes detailed descriptions, such as the height of the stand collars, reflecting the lifestyle habits of different generations. The emergence of cheongsam enabled women to wear one-piece robes that were usually for men; rather than a two-piece outfit that further reflected gender equality. While appreciating the craftsmanship, the public will embark on a cultural journey and grasp Chinese history from traditional finery.

Innovative interpretation by prominent contemporary designers such as Vivienne Tam and students, from traditional to the fusion of Chinese and Western fashionable finery Cheongsam reveals the charming and elegant beauty of women, this attribute enthrals many designers to include contemporary elements in cheongsam’s traditional Chinese features, marking cheongsam as one of the most significant trends in the international fashion scene. Some of the most outstanding examples such as celebrated designers Vivienne Tam and Barney Cheng, the renowned brand “Shanghai Tang”, etc. have also lent their exemplary works to this exhibition.

Fashion keeps pace with the times by introducing state-of-the-art ideas to traditional craftsmanship to create brand-new classics. To promote cultural inheritance, the exhibition showcases works by Hong Kong and Guangdong students, demonstrating their interpretation of traditional aesthetics. Exhibited works are from HKDI, Nottingham Trent University, Professional Education and Engagement Centre (PEEC), Shenzhen Polytechnic (SZPT), Technological and Higher Education Institute of Hong Kong (THEi), and The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, School of Fashion and Textiles.

HKDI has been actively promoting the preservation and inheritance of cheongsam to take up the responsibility. For example, HKDI invites the Hong Kong traditional Shanghai-style cheongsam master tailor, Mr. Fung Yau-choi, Chairman of Hong Kong Cheongsam Association, to host an exclusive cheongsam course at HKDI’s Professional Education and Engagement Centre (PEEC), in addition to lending his collections for the exhibition, to further pass on the traditional Chinese craftsmanship. It is to inspire future generations to take this alluring inheritance of the Chinese cheongsam to its next exciting and significant milestone.

ABOUT THE ARTIST / ORGANISER

Hong Kong Design Institute Fashion Archive is a pioneering and interactive fashion resource lab connecting local and international fashion industry and design professionals, facilitating partnerships and alliances between academia and industry.
Housing over 1,500 fashion items sourced around the world, it provides wide-ranging real-life fashion resources contributing to teaching and learning and applied research. The access to iconoclastic fashion items through its physical and digital archiving system helps enhance visitors’ understanding in fashion design, culture and history.